Our Process

BlackStar Denim creates Selvage Denim jeans made on Old Style Toyoda Shuttle Looms rather than the modern shuttle less looms.  Selvage Denim began in the late 1800’s.   Simply stated it is ‘Self ‐ Edge’ denim, which is created by the Weft going back and forth as a single thread rather than individual threads for each weft weave.  As the weft loops back from the end, it creates a ‘Selvage’ fabric woven all the way to the bound edges.  The bound edges would be woven in various colors (particularly red) to differentiate between different fabrics.

Denim made on the Toyoda Shuttle Looms are so narrow that about 3 yards were required to make premium denim jeans.  To maximize fabric consumption, the jeans makers use the Selvage also, which can be seen when the Jeans is turned up.  The color of the thread in the Selvage is used to differentiate between fabrics.  True Vintage Jeans are recognized by the Selvage thread.

Traditionally, American Denim has been considered superior.  However, the Americans replaced all their Shuttle Looms with faster looms.  The Japanese who felt that there was a market for Traditional Denim bought many of these looms.  And when the Selvage Denim craze returned many Jeans manufacturers introduced the Jeans made from Toyoda and American Draper X3 Shuttle looms and Quality Dyeing.

Quality Dyeing is Indigo Dyeing using Loop Dyeing machines — which are themselves rare and vintage machines.  The Rope of Cotton Yarn goes through a Vat of Indigo and then is taken to the ROOF of the factory where it is allowed to oxidize and brought back to dip.  Some companies do as many as 30 DIPS creating a rich blue Indigo character.

Another traditional thing that goes in the process of creating BlackStar Denim hand‐made jeans is the Chain Stitch at the waist and leg opening.  This stitch is made by Union Special 43200g sewing machines manufactured in the 1950’s.  This sewing machine generates a thick stitch line at the hem.   Washing the jeans causes the hem to twist.

Now brands are using the colors of their selvage stitching as a sort of brand differentiator.   Levi’s, for example, uses a red selvage stitching.  Lee uses a yellow, unbranded a blue.   Momotaro often uses a peach thread.  Samurai uses a silver.  Edwin have set themselves apart by utilizing a rainbow colored stitching.  Black Star Denim creates a red, green, black and brown selvage.  Thus, the purpose of the selvage’s color has become a brand trademark in addition to being an indicator of different fabrics.